Swiss Thermalism

Switzerland enjoys a lot of large public thermal bath facilities, and with the advent of star architects and the revival of thermalism in the late 20th century, some like Vals are worth a trip in their own rights. Other like Scuol are worth a side trip as the roman-irish spa ritual is an experience to live at least once. Finally, the hospitality business being in the DNA of Switzerland, Ritz was a Swiss after all, some hotels have created spa experiences well beyond the usual pool, jacuzzi and massage trilogy, the extraordinary Alpine Spa on the Bürgenstock being a prime example (see the Touring section).

To Baden Thermal Bath official website

Baden

Baden was the grandmother of thermalism in Switzerland as it was already well established in Roman times. It enjoyed a revival during the 19th century like many other spa towns but did not survive the changes of the late 20th century and was relegated to the second league leaving places like Vals to take prominence while Mario Botta is redesigning its thermal baths set to reopen in 2023 as FORTYSEVEN (the Celsius temperature at which the mineral water comes up from the earth).

More on Baden thermalism: 2000 years of history

To Vals Thermal Bath official website

Vals

Vals popped up on the world spa map in 1996 when Peter Zumthor redesigned the thermal baths, and the 1732 hotel with its fine dining restaurant reopened. The baths are strikingly dark and angulous, very unlike the traditional curves and the more usual white tones, but it is therefore worth a trip. The views from the outdoor pool, the grassy slopes opposite the baths balacing the bare concrete of the facilities, the multitude of hidden rooms within the columns of the indoor bath, like the flower bath or the sounding stone or the fountain grotto add to the experience and uniqueness of the place.

To Scuol Thermal Bath official website

Scuol

Scuol has a unique thermal bath complex with 2 separate experiences under one roof: a more traditional aqua center with a multitude of pools, both indoor and outdoor (bathing outdoor in winter surrounded by snowy peaks lit by the moon was an awesome experience by itself), jacuzzis, saunas and massages, etc. AND the roman irish bath. The latter is much more private and requires advanced reservation and a surcharge fee. It also requires overcoming some discomfort at first, especially for those, like us from French or Anglo-saxon culture, not used to the German FKK concept, the Freikörperkultur (free body culture), i.e. naturism/nudism. It took us about 10 minutes to overcome the awkwardness, but the experience was worth it: a circuit of 10-12 different hot air, steam and thermal bath stations set at different temperatures, where the body is gently warmed up, made to sweat healthily and gradually cooled down again concluded by a soap brush massage before being wrapped up in warm towels to recline over waterbed, the whole taking 2-3h, all in a very quiet environment.